Stockholm and the Baltics
Sad as I was to leave behind the farm we’d called home for over two weeks, as we packed our bags, the excitement of traveling somewhere new was returning. Our quick touchdown in Stockholm upon arrival had not even given us a taste of the city, so we looked forward to the 5 night stay we had booked in its heart. Basing our trip around a stay that cost us nothing but travel fees allowed us to do a lot more, and its an option I would highly recommend to anyone looking for affordable ways to travel - as long as you’re willing to get your hands a little dirty!
We spent our first day drafting a loose budget and itinerary. We’d spent the last year tirelessly saving up to ensure that after working on the farm, we would have sufficient funds for enjoying ourselves and exploring this part of the world neither of us had ever been to before. Not including our hotel, we averaged about $24o per day for 5 days between transportation, entrance fees for museums and landmarks, eating out, and souvenirs to bring home. For our 6th day we spent the day resting at the hotel and our only expenses were our meals. This budget worked perfectly for us as we felt we had a great balance of rest and exploration.
Our destination highlights began in Gamla Uppsala just north of Stockholm. Transportation there was easy by train and we visited the historical Linnaeus' Hammarby, an estate dedicated to botanical research by an 18th century biologist. We got to taste some fresh apples as we were visiting during their apple exhibition that featured many beautiful varieties grown across Sweden. From there we visited the amazing viking burial mounds that roll like grassy hills over the flatlands of Uppsala, where at the heart of each lies an unexcavated grave.
Local to Stockholm’s downtown, we enjoyed the historic museums, our favorites being the Vasa Museum, built around an enormous 17th century ship preserved by the waters of the Baltic sea where it had lain sunken for 300 years, and the Nordiska Museum which interactively walked us through the cultural landscape of Scandinavia over the centuries. In the Old Town we were amazed by the beautiful architecture of the crowded cobble streets, though if you’re planning to stay or eat in this area, be prepared to drop a pretty penny!
We were both very impressed by both the cleanliness and the safety of Stockholm. Compared to a lot of major (and minor) American cities back home, we sensed an immediate difference in the general upkeep of the Swedish capital. Our tourism brought us around the majority of its landscape and in all that time, we didn’t find an area that we felt rushed to get through for safety or sanitary sake. So again, as another chapter of our journey closed, we were sad to leave but eager for what was waiting ahead.
Our next destination was Riga, Latvia, gateway to the Baltic states and the place of Matt’s birth. We descended into a gray and cloudy evening and shuffled from airport to Old Town where we’d be spending the long weekend. There was an almost palpable difference from the place we’d come from. Sweden, like our home country, has been largely untouched by some of the hardships faced by the greater world, and because of that has been able to make great strides in its development and upkeep. Latvia, while still obviously a country well established in the European Union, felt a little more haunted by the recent and age long struggles that have occurred on its soil. Ghosts of a past only 30 years gone lingered in the landscape and in our time visiting, we learned a lot about the first hand history of the Soviet Union’s impact on the countries it had occupied. Latvia is not a high traffic tourist destination, but if you ever find yourself nearby, we highly recommend all of the museums we visited. Beautifully curated, the Natural History Museum, the War Museum, and the Museum of the Occupation all gave us a powerful insight into the history of the country and the impact of the nations that have vied for control over it for centuries. After an immersive walk through display of the Soviet occupation, the Museum of the Occupation ended the exhibit with a flag and a quote illuminated against a white wall, “From the labyrinth of darkness leads the road to light again.”
That same day we happened upon Riga’s autumn festival which was happening in the main square. A stage decorated with gourds and leaves featured groups of dancers in traditional dress, ranging from age groups of young children to adults. We were both moved deeply by the spirit and preservation of culture among a people who had persisted against erasure at the hands of tyrannical rule. Although we had no information on Matt’s own personal history, it was insightful to come to the place he’d been born and learn a little more about the complicated history that would have been fresh and prevalent at the time he was here.
From Latvia, we packed our bags again and made the journey to a village in the north of Lithuania where we expected to spend the next two weeks volunteering on another farm. We arrived in the evening, and with our great bags on our shoulders, trekked across the pink dusted countryside to the location our host had dropped us. It really made us feel like travellers walking along with our belongings on our back as we passed green pastures and grazing cows and quiet houses so far away from what we knew.
We met our hosts who were a kind and welcoming young family with a beautiful property. However, their guest quarters were not very well winterized and as the temperatures at night were dropping to freezing, we found ourselves wondering if two whole weeks would be realistic. Unfortunately, upon arrival Matt began experiencing bad allergies that persisted through our first day of work and grew worse at the eve of our second night.
The work itself was pleasant. We spent the day wrestling and trimming back overgrown jerusalem artichokes and digging up parsnips and beets. I’d loved the sheep and work we’d done in northern Sweden, but as someone with a passion for plant cultivation, it felt really nice to have my hands in the soil and be surrounded by crops again.
We enjoyed a bonfire with our host under the clear star strung sky that evening, but when we did retire beneath our mountain of blankets, Matt’s allergies were making it clear that we wouldn’t be able to stay. As he wheezed and complained of pain deep into the night, I began to feel worried he’d get sick breathing in the freezing air and not getting proper rest. The only bus back to town left first thing in the morning, and among other factors that contributed to our decision, we decided it was not best to stay another night. Around 2am as the stressful night lingered on, I sent a text explaining our situation to our hosts and we packed all of our belongings away. At first light we grabbed our bags and headed back the way we came, catching the bus back to Riga.
It was disappointing as we’d both been prepared for and looking forward to another two weeks of working, but as we drove away we felt a relief that let us know we’d made the right decision. It taught us a lesson too about being able to trust our gut and make a quick decision in a tough spot. Fortunately, the budget had an ample buffer of emergency money and we were able to book an off season spa hotel back in Latvia, the most affordable option on last minute notice. We looked pretty outlandish walking into the somewhat ritzy seaside hotel with our giant bags and work clothes, but it felt so good to walk into our room and have a hot shower.
Matt’s respiratory troubles eased up as we enjoyed the hotels amenities; a steam room and a salt room, and after a day of rest we were grateful to finish our journey in a bit of luxury. We enjoyed the pool and the sauna, as well as the scenic walk among the trees to the nearby Baltic sea which at sunset reflected like glass over the sands. On our final day before flying out of Riga we took a long escapade by foot to the Ethnographic Open Air Museum which was a great highlight of our time as we got to walk through the towering red trees and see the historic buildings and houses preserving everyday life in Latvia’s history.
The long journey home was ahead of us. There was no direct flight from Riga to Boston so we took a detour to Istanbul and then New York, and from New York back home to Portland which was a grueling 24 hours of travel, but full of special memories in their own right. I hadn’t hit a real point of homesickness while we were away, so enamoured by all the places and activities we filled our time with, but arriving back to Maine in the orange flush of mid October made me appreciate home.
So, a total of 8 flights, 5 countries, 7 weeks, 2 farms, and memories for a lifetime. It was worth every dollar we saved to get there, and we have many people to thank in supporting us, including you reading this now! This journey was important to us individually, but it was also something that we wanted to share so thank you for following our story, supporting my art and writing that helped us get there, and to our hosts and friends and the countries that taught us so much while we were away!
The only question that remains: where to next?
